Apr 15, 2018 - Santorini

When the boat arrived in Santorini harbour, I was overwhelmed by the reception of both humans and animals! The donkeys descended thick and fast down some of the steepest terrain I have ever seen, rushing to meet the ferry and haul the load of tourists up the steep steps to the town perched on the rocks above. Santorini is a submerged volcano that erupted eons ago, leaving a caldera behind. Its steep rock faces are covered with whitewashed villas clinging to the rock face like vines on a brick wall. There is a tradition in Santorini of...

Mar 14, 2018 - Naxos

Naxos is a bigger island than Paros and much larger than Antiparos. I found a lovely little room in a four-plex which even has a communal fridge and a tiny balcony overlooking a rather overgrown garden. Every morning I would wander into the village to buy fresh bread and watermelon for my breakfast -- heaven! I've explored the island on foot, following the rutted roads and pathways that criss-cross the island. Olive groves with lounging goats and sheep are everywhere and the air has a rich, dusty smell to it. I am so totally relaxed after...

Feb 8, 2018 - Paros

Boats to the Aegean Islands leave from the nearby community of Piraeus. I was told the trip to Paros would be a "few hours"......which turned into a gut-wrenching 8 as we stopped at various and sundry islands on the way. The seas were quite rough and I made the mistake of having some very rich coffee and yogurt for breakfast which didn't stay in my stomach for long. I spent most of the trip on deck! My first glympse of Paros was magical. A typical Greek island village, whitewashed with flashes of brilliant turqoise and teal, met my gaze....

Feb 7, 2018 - Greek field notes

Greece is still suffering the effects of its national debt crisis. Unemployment is 20+%. Many shops are empty. Athens has its share of beggars and people sleeping on sidewalks. Graffiti is epidemic, and most of it is merely ugly. There are plenty of well dressed people. BMWs and Mercedes are everywhere. Income inequality is in plain sight. We feel safe. We practice street smarts at all times, just to make sure. Greek T.V. has lots of music videos, along with near nightly analysis of Survivor Greece. We look for news or programs in English...

Feb 4, 2018 - Modern travel to ancient sites

We have been enjoying the benefits of modern travel technology, from a GPS equipped Ford SUV to smart-phone accessed Internet. The convenience is enormous, but it's not without some cost. The rental car GPS is programmed in Greek. It accepts input in Latin letters, which it transliterates to the closest Greek letters. Leaving Olympia, I'm pretty sure its transliteration was not quite close enough to what we wanted as we spent a lot of time on narrow twisty mountain roads to wind up nowhere in particular. Even when input is good enough, we...

Feb 2, 2018 - Delphi, Olympia, and other old things

Ancient Delphi is one of the most serene and aesthetic places I have yet experienced. I'm sure the sparse crowds of the low season and the remarkable mid-winter sunshine were key elements of the experience. Modern Delphi has a charm of its own. A €30 euro room with view balcony added to the ambiance. The driving route from Delphi to Olympia was scenic, hugging the shore of the Gulf of Corinth. After crossing the toll bridge at Patra, the route was considerably less scenic, but efficient. Modern Olympia is asleep during the off season....

Jan 31, 2018 - We feel welcome

We have felt welcome just about everywhere in Greece. Hosts are glad we came. Locals are polite and friendly, even in the huge city of Athens. On the crowded subway into Athens from the airport, a solo Japanese gentleman was uncertain about the proper connection for his hotel. A group of locals formed a small help committee, discussing options on the route map, and concluding with a consensus to be carried out by a volunteer who was going the same way and promised to see the gentleman to his hotel. While I have struggled to learn to say...

Jan 29, 2018 - Sun, monuments, and other pleasantries

We seem to have left behind the wind and rain. We are enjoying sunshine and warm afternoons. We have our Dutch friends Jan and Henriette to thank. We have joined them for the remainder of our Greek tour. We specifically asked them to arrange the weather. Mo first met Jan in grad school in Seattle. We have visited one another in the Netherlands, Spain, Germany, and U.S. over the years and have found them to be excellent hosts and travel companions. The historic core of Athens in easily walked. Good thing. Traffic anywhere else in the city is...

Jan 27, 2018 - Sunsets

Fira and especially Oia exist today primarily as ampitheaters for the sunset. In high season, tourists line up three and four deep for the best photo spots, sometimes staking a prime location hours in advance. It seems the blue and white buildings, massive cliffs of the cauldera, and the Greek sun intersect into the perfect sunset. I'm not convinced. It is a striking setting. I'm sure a clear day produces lovely sunset views. I'm just happy we're here in low season, when prices are low and crowds virtually nonexistent. It struck me as...

Jan 26, 2018 - Getting there is half the battle

Winter connections in the Greek Islands are a problem. Ferry service is severely limited or stopped altogether. You can rarely fly direct from one island to another. To get to where we wanted to go next, we were obliged to fly Crete to Athens, then book a separate round trip Athens-Santorini-Athens. I did so online with the infamous Ryan Air. Agean Air from Crete to Athens was pleasant enough. Cabin crew were efficient, snacks and beverage included in the price. Ryan Air, on the other hand, was nearly as awful as I have often heard it is....

Jan 24, 2018 - Jim's best of Crete

It feels presumptuous to list some "best of" after only six nights and three stops, but I usually allow myself to follow my notions when it comes to writing. Here goes. Best breakfast. Turkey bagel with a side of red cabbage, slice of carrot cake, and cafe Americano. Barrio The Neighborhood Cafe, Rethymna. Best museum. Archeological Museum in Heraklion. The Knossos frescoes are worth the price of admission. Don't miss the Serpent Goddess. Best shower. Civitas Botique Hotel, Rethymnon. Hot water delivered in a glass and tile enclosure,...

Jan 20, 2018 - Crete in the off-season

There are definite advantages to off season travel. It's cheaper. We paid €70 for two nights in Hotel Iraklion, whereas its typical rate for our room (according to the legal notice on the door) is €120 a night. No crowds. There have been no lines. Buses are not full. Most businesses are open. Locals are cheerful. Public toilet attendants are glad you stopped by. There is lots of soccer on T.V. On the other hand... Days are short. It's cold. The weather is unreliable. Ferries run on severely reduced schedules or not at all. Museums may...