Oz and the Big Lap travel blog

19 February


A better night than the last, the wind had changed direction and eased, but it was very cool, only 19degrees when we emerged. Breakfast, showers, pack up trailer and car and we were on our way just after 9.30, a bit of a record for us, especially as we had the awning to dismantle as well.

Back on the Flinders Highway and heading north. We called at Talia Beach and caves, a few K off the Highway. A large group of kangaroos grazing by the roadside were disturbed by us and went hopping off into the bush. The Sheepshed Caves were the first to arrive, but the boardwalk had been badly damaged in a storm so it was not easily accessible so we 'passed'. On to 'The Tub' a large basin with sheer walls, created by a collapsed cave, very impressive. We drove on but couldn't find the Talia Caves and met someone else who also couldn't find them. They just stopped for a coffee instead! The view of the Beach was amazing, it just stretched away from us for miles (actually about 14km) and as it was still very windy, the waves were crashing in, quite spectacular.

We turned off again at Murphy's Haystacks, granite boulders poking out of a hill. So-called because the land at the time was owned by a certain Murphy and the boulders mis-identified by a traveller, from a distance, and the name stuck. Worth the visit, as there are quite a few of them, at odd angles to each other, depending on how they had weathered.

Ok, getting towards lunchtime so we called in to Streaky Bay, a bigger settlement than we had seen before, and a fish shop Ruth had read about. Sadly, as it was Sunday, the shop was closed, but just up the hill was a little cafe that made us excellent fish and chips, along with very friendly greetings and smiles.

So now the last leg of today's journey, we rejoined the Flinders Highway and headed for Ceduna. Still the same sort of countryside, but we had glimpses of the coast and saw a few kangaroos before arriving at our campsite. Set up camp then had a beer!

Leftovers for dinner! But a nice bottle of red helped it along.

20 February

Bit of a disturbed night, we were camped next to the toilet block, so a later start to the day. Checked out our route across the Nullarbor, rest stops, fuel, distances etc and reassured went into town to stock up on provisions. Ruth tried to get a pedicure but of the three salons, two were closed and the other had only just started doing pedicures, had a limited range of nail polish, and were too expensive. Very friendly and helpful lady in the Info Centre who gave us a very detailed map of the Nullarbor, from start to finish. Great stuff.

Time for lunch, we had bought a ready cooked chicken and with some homemade potato salad it just hit the spot. Went for a walk after lunch, along the beach just behind the campsite, Shelly Beach. The bay curved around for five kilometres, backed by sand dunes, beautiful soft sand, but millions and millions of small seashells mixed in, hence the name? Anyway we walked from half way to the southern end,, good breeze and the ocean was so blue, a fabulous walk. Found some seaweed known locally as string of pearls washed up and a very large quill shell, about 30cm long. A bit broken, and a bit big to collect.

Dinner, more leftovers, this time the chicken from lunch, ah well, maybe tomorrow.......

Catch up with emails, check bank accounts etc as the wifi is reasonable over a small glass of Tawny Port we bought at Grant Burge in the Barossa. Very smooth.

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