Drove through great mountain and lakes scenery to the West Coast. Stopped at the beach for a sandwich lunch break, seconds later beeing surrounded by sand flies - fortunately I had the insect repellent with me. Two dolphins played in the water - that moment Ian and I had the idea of swimming with dolphins (see Kaikoura). We arrived in Franz Josef at 4 pm, checked into the Rainforest Retreat & Forest Park Lodge (69$) and left right away to walk to the glacier. The Franz Josef was first explored in 1865 by Austrian Julias Haast, who named it after the Austrian emperor. In 1985, after a long period of apparent retreat, the glacier started advancing again and progressed nearly 2km until 1996, when the retreat started again.