So we finally made it to Chachapoyas and had a whole one day set aside to get to the pre-inca ruins of Kuelap (I hope you all realise that generally my spelling is not even close to correct for any of these places). We are so glad we made the slow dusty journey out here cause the ruins were amazing. We head off on tour with our new dutch friends and discovered some beautiful ruins high up on a hillside (god knows why they don´t build any of these places in valleys that are easy to get to). The ruins were old enough that there were trees and flowers and moss that had grown up over everything giving it a beautiful atmosphere. We also got the opportunity to try out a wet weather gear when it started pouring down for the last 2hrs of the tour - but we remained perfectly dry and happy - thankyou to columbia imitation gortex. Next we were off and running to the coast and more ruins - Chicalayo. Thanks to some fantastic planning by Peru Roads the entry in and out of Chachapoyas was only open for an hour in the morning and hour in the evening. Thus due to the time we had to leave, we arrived to Chicalayo at 3am and had to wait in the bus station till 7am, so we could quickly head off to the next viewing and then catch an afternoon bus to Trujillo ... note to self - this is really an unfun way to spend the early morning hours - next time just put the schedule back a day so you can arrive at a reasonable hour and spend an extra night if you have to.