Leaving Tokyo behind, a 2hr train trip North and we were at Nikko, a world heritage site due to its array of beautiful Shrines from the 16th and 17th Century. Working our way higher and higher, the temperature dropping to below freezing with snow at our feet we attempted to find our intended youth hostel. The locals as usual were more than helpful and sweet, and after a strenuous walk we found the place; a tiny semi-detatched Japanese home overlooking the river that bisects Nikko. The friendly owner of the hostel exclaimed that it was too late for dinner, it being just after 6:00pm! So instead we took the easier downhill walk to a mainstreet and grabbed an indulgant but reasonable meal to keep us warm through the night.