We retraced our steps to Kaikoura now that we had finished the loop around the south island and upon our arrival Ryan took the bus up to a lookout point above the town where we had a view of the area surrounding Kaikoura....we then made our way into town and got off the bus at the YHA which was on the opposite end of town from where we stayed last time at the Adelphi (and much quieter since we weren't on main street). After getting settled we checked out this end of town and walked past Fyffe House which had been built around 1860 by George Fyffe who was a cousin to Robert Fyffe who had set up a whaling station here in 1842. The house is the only surviving piece of architecture from the town's whaling origins. Anthropologists dug up the largest moa egg ever found in an excavation near Fyffe House...moa's were very large birds (much like an ostrich or emu) that roamed Aotearoa hundred's of years ago and Kaikoura was likely a moa-hunter settlement 800-1000 years ago and at least 14 Maori village sites have been identified in the area. As we stood looking out at the ocean there was a lone seal atop an outcrop of rock scratching himself and then staring us down as if to say "this is my spot and don't you even think about coming out here". At the point where we stood watching the seal was a chimney that was left standing, the last remnant from an old customs house that had been built during the town's early whaling years....we headed back to the hostel and stopped at the Pier Hotel for dinner....from the inside out it looked like any ordinary pub, but the food that was served was amazing...we tried the NZ green-lipped mussels which are probably twice the size of the mussels we get at home.....they were steamed with white wine, garlic and butter and were divine....we followed that with a lovely blue cod that was served with green beans and new potatoes with a buerre blanc sauce...heavenly!