20,000 leagues under the sky, 2004- travel blog

Cat and "seagull"

Plan C was never a possibility. I wanted to make it to Tirana today so I checked the bus times last night, for whatever reason the early bus along the cost is not running. I needed to get to Ulcinj, the last town in Montenegro, early enough to get across the border early enough to catch the last bus or train to Tirana at about 1pm. The first bus from Budva direct to Ulcinj was at 11:30, far to late to get any further so I decided to take the 8am bus to Bar, the next major town along the cost and see if I could get a bus from there. I was hopeful as Bar is past the junction to Podgorica, the capital and there must be busses coming from there too. I arrived in Ulcinj just after 9am and asked for a ticket to Ulcinj - not possible, next bus 2pm! Couldn't believe it, surely at least the 11:30 from Budva must be coming through at about 12:30 but apparently not. To make it worse the previous bus from bar had only left half an hout earlier. What's wrong with these people, it less than a four hour drive from border to border but they schedule the busses so that everyone arrives at each town after the bus from that town has left making it about a 3 day journey when the through busses aren't going.

Oh well, fortunately they had a gardaroba although I had to track down the man who runs it, so I ditched my pack and went off to see Bar. First off I hit the port area where I saw what could be the whole Yugoslav navy, 6 or 7 boats rusting away - Serbia is now landlocked since Montenegro declared independence. As I carried along the cost there was a bit of a promenade and a stony beach. Further along was what appeared to be the main beach area, a longer section of pebbles backed by a mile or so of the must rundown and disgusting looking cafes and shacks I've ever laid eyes on. They matched the beach perfectly though as I don't think I've ever seen such a disgraceful beach. Haven't they heard of bins, don't they want international tourism. I guess the Russians don't mind. If you ever see a cheap holiday in Montenegro, go for it, unless it happens to be to Bar in which case run a mile. I killed the rest of my 5 hour wait in the town centre which wasn't much to write home about - so I won't.

So eventually I made my way back to the bus station, got my pack back and waited on the platform for 2pm, would you believe it, at 2 o'clock exactly three busses run by three different companies turned up, it seemed to confuse the locals as much as me as we had to scrabble around to work out which ones our tickets were for. I had noticed at a few of the earlier bus station that all of the busses tend to leave at the same time which I thought was\ a bit crazy but I hadn't realised that they were probably all going to the same destinations too!

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