The morning starts off well, as the tout who sold me yestaerday's tour turns up wanting to be paid. We have an interesting discussion where he explains how it's everyone's fault except his own and I explain how I'm not going to pay him the full price. I actually had a great time, but I stick at the lie about the guide service and how he expected us to pay the poor bloody guide at Kuelap a measly 10 sols. So I deduct what I paid the guide and give him the rest.
From here it's due north to where I want to be in Ecuador, but it's going to be fun getting there, cos it's not a widely used route and will take me two days. Today I have to get to Jaen so I can start for the border in good time tomorrow. Easy enough. First an auto- a collectivo taxi- about three hours to Bagua Grande. There are only four passengers in the car, and I get the front seat, so it's all very comfy. And the views, as we follow the dirt roads alongside the river somethingorother through the moutains, are amazing. At Bagua Grande I share a rickshaw with one of the passengers, an insurance salesman. He is also going to Jaen, and together we rattle across town to another auto company, where we join the next car to Jaen, only about an hour and a half away.
Jaen is nothing to write home about, but there is a bearable hotel -with cable-and after grabbing takeaway chicken and chips from a street stall, I veg out in front of an extremely bad movie. What more could a girl want?