Its been weeks since I wrote in my paper journal. I spent all that time in Kashgar tring to decide what to do about Pakistan. Should I go by myself, tried to find a travelling companion, but each time I did their plans would change and I would be without a travelling partnet. Then the earthquake happened. In the end, I said screw it- I'll just goo by myself! So here I am sitting in the restaurant of the Khunjerab Hotel in old Sost writing by the light of a propane lamp. The area is beutiful. There are apple trees in the yard and the compound overlooks the river and an amazing mountain range. I think I made the right choice. But the journey here was not so easy. Karakul Lake was freezing as we Tashkugan. The 2 day bus journey was bumpy, and long. We arrived in Tashguran late, had dinner, and went to bed. Next morning our bus went to Chinese customs. We finished and were on the road at 12:30. The day was beautiful and sunny - perfect for crossing the pass. The scenery is amazing. The mountains reach up to the heavns and right down to the little villages. We passed road construction - always working on hghways that already look done! We went through so many chekcpoint and passport control centres that I lost count! Finally we left China, and crossed into no-man's land. I had a headache, but when we decended into the valley my stomach turned. Minutes latter I was at the front of the bus begging for it to stop. I threw up, and felt immediately better. Had a headache, and was really tired, but didn't want to sleep for hear of missing something! The gorge is surrounded by mountains their peaks rising to touchheaven. My pictures will not do it justice. The road winds around the cliffs hugging them for dear life. The river ebbs and flows below us. We stopped to pay the toll at the national park, and received a great surprise. We were introduced to a 3 month old snow leopard club. Its mother had died, and the rangers were taking care of it.