Tsetse flies have protected this 2600-square-kilometer area from human encroachment. It is now a dry season refuge for migratory animals that spend more hospitable seasons outside the park. On our first game drive this evening we see three juvenile cheetah waiting for their mama to return from hunting, a lioness drinking at a stream only 10 feet below the bridge we're on, and a leopard in a tree, in addition to elephants and the prey animals the cats feed on. Dik-dik are among the smallest of these, pygmy antelopes that form lifelong pair bonds. They are ubiquitous in the park, but we're not sure they manage to out-mass the tsetse.