This country offers endlessly differing landscapes from one hour to the next. One moment you could be on the moon with jagged ochre lava rocks on one side and then limestone cliffs a moment later. However the day starts at the point where eons ago a canyon was formed into the mountain range splitting the thousand foot limestone cliffs into two where very occasionally a raging torrent suddenly emerges to disgorge its power into the valley. Hoping for a dry day we head off deep into the ravine along the riverbed which is littered with huge boulders and rock detritus all of which create not the smoothest of paths for the 4/4. For seven kilometres we wend our way through shaded gorges towering above us past ubiquitous date palms and with sunlit peaks occasionally appearing in the distance.

Amazingly when we can go no further my vehicle (though you can venture further on foot) we become aware of a handful of locals who have returned down memory lane, or track, to where they once lived before being rehoused in more modern if less characterful accommodation. I bet they have wifi up here too. Actually the country seems to have complete coverage of a different sort, that is 'call to prayer coverage' wherever you are. The mosques of course act as the relay stations, but in the unlikely event you don't have coverage, fear not. There is an app which will automatically relay the call on time, adjusted for your geographical location. Brilliant. Travelling with a Muslim is like being with a type 1 diabetic; he is aways just popping out to pray at special times. He has dispensation as he is travelling to reduce prayers from 5 to 3 adjusted times.

Only minor events on the road involved sighting of a child's size motorcyclette with the registration 007. James Bond is obviously not big in Oman. The other was being overtaken by a van with a camel in the back which almost broke loose at 70 miles an hour.

Sunset over the dunes finished off the day as we prepare to pass the night under canvas,

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