20,000 leagues under the sky, 2004- travel blog

Mosque and snow

Turkish Quarter

Latin Bridge - WW1 started here

Sarajevo man

So many graves

Another day ends

Note to self - must buy a waterproof cover for my pack.

Stunning rail journey up through the middle of Bosnia and Herzegovina, rolling hills, horses and carts and traditional haystacks. From Zenica the train climbs up towards Sarajevo through more mountainous terrain, unfortunately it got dark so I missed most of those views. As we arrived in Sarajevo it started to rain. I was just beginning to wonder if it was safe to mention that I'd gone nearly 3 weeks without rain - no! There were no ATMs in the station so the option to get a tram into town was out. I had to walk, it just kept gettingheavier and heavier and still o signs of an ATM, my pack was getting more and more waterlogged to the point I wasn't sure I would still be able to carry it if it got much heavier. By the time I managed to get some Bosnian Marka I was more than half way there and already half drowned so I carried on walking. I think I must have made a sorry site when I walked into the reception of where I'd booked to stay. I didn't see much point trying to get dry as I needed to go and find something to eat so I just dropped my bags and headed back out and typicaly the rain stopped. The guesthouse owner predicted thatit would turn to snow overnight but it wasn't that cold.

He was right though, I wolk up to a Sarajevo surrounded by white hills, all very pretty. I was staying in the heart of the old turkish quarter, again very pretty but after not much more than half a day there I was bored with Sarajevo, somehow it didn't live up to any of my expectations. If you like your cities with bullet holes and shell scars then Sarajevo is the place for you. The museum next to the spot where Archduke FF was shot sparking the first world war was one room with nothingof any significance in it, except perhaps the gun that was used but I suspect it was a replica. I seemed to spend a lot of time spotting "Sarajevo Roses", the patterns left on the ground where shells exploded some of them symbolically filled in with red concrete. At least it didn't rain any more while I was there.

The train out from Sarajevo to Mostar was at 7am, I woke up at 5:30 and opened my bedroom window while I packed. At about 5:40 I heard a heavy pat, then a few seconds later a pit... then pit-pat and then I realised, oh no it's back, however it turned out to be a short shower which had stoped by the time I left, until I got 5 minutes down the road when the heavens opened again and just as I arrived, I left looking like a drowned rat and carrying a half tonne pack.

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