Merry in Olde England - & a Wedding - Fall 2014 travel blog

Polperro

Polperro

Polperro

Polperro

Polperro

Polperro

Looe

Looe panorama

low tide in Looe

hiker

coastal trail

Cornwall coast

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typical Cornwall road


Although we're staying in Devon and have left Cornwall, we can't seem to leave Cornwall. There are so many scenic spots there and the weather continues to be wonderful so we went back for one more day of calendar photography. Our main destination was Polperro, a town we visited from a cruise ship right after a hard rain. We knew that it was a beautiful spot, but we couldn't do it justice in the fog and murk. The harbor is so quaint and small that you have to park way out of town and the walk in is past lovely B & B's, festooned with flowers. The twisty lanes are lined with homes that look hundreds of years old with so many layers of white wash over the stone walls, that you can hardly see the outlines of the stones. And you've got to love a town with a smuggler's museum.

We took a short boat ride along the rocky shore. This area is vulnerable to winter storms so the mouth of the harbor is narrow and can be closed entirely if the weather is too bad. Nevertheless, Polperro has flooded sometimes with twelve feet of water in the streets, deep enough to cause fatalities. Town leaders decided to put a drain in the parking lot where we left our car a long climb up a steep hill and hired miners to blast a drainage tunnel with an outlet to the sea. The project cost six million pounds and there hasn't been a flood since. From the boat we saw the tunnel exit and the coastal hiking trail far above. We watched the tiny dots that were the hikers and they hardly moved at all. The hills are mighty steep.

From Polperro we drove to Fowey (rhymes with joy) but by the time we got there I was ready to call it phooey. I put Fowey into the GPS and we drove in the usual circuitous, hair raising way down narrow lanes lined with massive rock walls and suddenly we came to a ferry. We had to pay 4£ to sail across a narrow river. The car park was at the top of the highest hill yet and when we finally made it to the harbor, it wasn't all that nice. When I asked the GPS for the route back to our condo, we had to pay another 4£ to go back over that little river. Oh well.

On the way home we stopped in Looe (don't pronounce the "e") for cream tea, a Cornish tradition in Looe. Cream tea includes a scone which you smear with clotted cream and jelly and a white tea - tea with milk. Looe is another cute town that is appealing to tourists, but obviously has real people leading real lives living there. It didn't look as lovely as Polperro because the tide had gone out leaving the boats teetering on little stand surrounded by muck and sea weed. As midwesterners we are very insensitive to the tide and are always amazed at how different the harbors look depending on what stage the tide is in.

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