Wiki Info Nubra Valley
Up at 5:15 to catch the 6 am bus to NubraValley...as it turns out with several hundred other vehicles all
attempting to go over the highest road in the world. What a zoo, joke definitely not a pleasant experience. The road itself is not dangerous, it is the existence of hundreds of drivers, lots of them hired jeeps trying to please tourists like us. A checkpoint near the top delays everyone at least 2 hours for np known reason. Then at the pass itself is a traffic jam due to vehicles stopping, coming both ways, taking pictures , and generally causing chaos.
UPDATE: Next day I spoke with Dutch motor bikers who were also crossing at that time but much later (they only had a ten minute wait and clear skies). They were told there was an avalanche and it took all the while we were there to clear the road. So I'm assuming what we experienced is not necessarily the norm, thank god.
Altitude sickness for me is a headache but over and above that all the diesel engines were running due to the cold and the fumes were gagging me. The good parts were snow only on the way up, clearing at the top, and it waited to snow again until we were almost down to the valley floor!
The scenery was great but worth the sick and gag I'm not sure. We left the pass at 1:30 and arrived in Panamik at 5:30! Found a room at HotSprings Guesthouse and walked down the road & up to the hot springs and it was closed! Of course there is a 24 hour alternative but it's dark and dirty. A bunch of Indian tourists took it over shortly after we arrived.
The guesthouse served momos which I enjoyed but when we arrived they had offered tea which we great fully accepted as if a welcoming beverage. When time came to pay our bill it was included, not something we appreciate, offering something as if a gift only to discover it was a sneaky was to get more $$!
There was no real hot water from the spring as he implied either and electricity was short lived but at least long enough to charge batteries. Not really a guesthouse, more like a home stay.